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  • 19
    Sep
    2012
    4:08pm, EDT

    Myanmar's Suu Kyi honored with Congress' highest award

    Myanmar opposition leader and Nobel Peace Prize laureate Aung San Suu Kyi has been presented with Congress' highest award, the Congressional Gold Medal in honor of her leadership and commitment to human rights in Burma.

    By NBC News staff and wire services

    U.S. officials hailed Myanmar opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi as a "heroine" and praised her “implacable resistance” and "quiet resolve" Wednesday in a Congressional Gold Medal ceremony at the U.S. Capitol.


    Follow @NBCNewsWorld

    "Today we are proud to honor her with a Congressional Gold Medal, the highest honor the Congress can bestow," House Minority Leader Nancy Pelosi said.

    Among those who praised Suu Kyi's leadership were Secretary of State Hillary Clinton, Sen. John McCain, former first lady Laura Bush, Sen. Mitch McConnell, House Speaker John Boehner and Senate Majority Leader Harry Reid.

    "It’s almost too delicious to believe, my friend, that you are here in the rotunda of our Capitol... as an elected member of your parliament," Clinton said.

    "[Suu Kyi's] contribution to Burma is decades old and just beginning," Laura Bush added.

    Suu Kyi said receiving the honor was one of the most moving days of her life and thanked the United States for its support of her struggle for democracy in Myanmar.

    Suu Kyi's journey to global icon: a heart-breaking tale of personal sacrifice

    "From the depths of my heart I thank you, the people of America, and you, their representatives, for keeping us in your hearts and minds," Suu Kyi said.

    President Barack Obama was to later meet Suu Kyi in the Oval Office, normally reserved for visiting foreign presidents and prime ministers.


    A senior administration official said there would be no news coverage because Suu Kyi is not a head of state. That also likely reflects concerns that her Washington visit could overshadow the country's reformist president, Thein Sein, who attends the annual gathering of world leaders at the U.N. General Assembly in New York next week.

    On Wednesday, the U.S. removed sanctions that blocked any U.S. assets belonging to Sein and the speaker of its lower house of parliament and that generally barred American companies from dealing with them.

    Ease sanctions on Mynamar, Democracy leader Suu Kyi says on US tour

    Suu Kyi, who won the 1991 Nobel Peace Prize for championing democracy in opposition to a military junta that held her under house arrest for years, began her U.S. tour on Tuesday by meeting with Clinton.

    Suu Kyi warned on Tuesday that reforms in her country had cleared only the "first hurdle" and said she supported an easing of U.S. sanctions as part of a broad partnership with Washington.

    Myanmar opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi says, "I do support the easing of sanctions, because I think that our people can start taking responsibility for their own destiny." Watch Hillary Clinton's introduction and Suu Kyi's speech.

    The Nobel laureate said the economic sanctions were a useful tool for putting pressure on Myanmar's military government in the past, but now the people need to consolidate democracy without outside help.

    "I do support the easing of sanctions, because I think that our people can start taking responsibility for their own destiny," she said at the U.S. Institute of Peace in Washington on the opening day of a two-week tour.

    "I do not think we should depend on U.S. sanctions to keep up the momentum of our movement to democracy. We have to work at it ourselves and there are very many other ways in which the United States can help us," said Suu Kyi.

    Since Suu Kyi herself was freed from house arrest in late 2010, she has transitioned from dissident to parliamentarian. Now confident of her position in Myanmar and free to travel abroad without being barred from returning, Suu Kyi has in the past four months also visited Thailand and Europe, where she was accorded honors usually reserved for heads of state.

    Reuters and the Associated Press contributed to this report.

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    29 comments

    Isn't America Great? Dissidents from other countries get our countries Highest award, but our Dissidents get pepper sprayed in the eyes and then thrown in Jail. Be a Dissident somewhere else but not in America land of the "Free".

    Show more
    Explore related topics: myanmar, suu-kyi, featured, burma
  • 1
    Jun
    2012
    11:40am, EDT

    Myanmar's Suu Kyi warns against 'reckless optimism'

    Burmese opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi addressed the World Economic Forum in Bangkok saying, "we just want to improve the state of Burma" and urged the international community to not be overly optimistic about her country's reform process. NBC's Ian Williams reports.

    By Ian Williams, NBC News

    BANGKOK -- Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi stole the show at a regional economic forum here in Bangkok Friday.

    It's the first time she's traveled abroad in almost a quarter of a century, and her audience, the good and the great of Asia's business and political world, were hanging on her every word.


    "We just want to improve the state of Burma," she said in a speech to the World Economic Forum on East Asia.  "That's what we mean when we say reform."

    EPA / Barbara Walton

    Aung San Suu Kyi (C) speaks during an event at the World Economic Forum on East Asia in Bangkok, Thailand, on Friday.

    Her speech was in many ways a reality check, warning against what she called "reckless optimism" over the rapid reforms taking place in Myanmar, also known as Burma. 

    The Oxford-educated daughter of Myanmar's slain independence leader added:

    "I would not like you to be over-optimistic. I think optimism is good, but cautious optimism. These days I am coming across a lot of what I would call reckless optimism. That is not going to help you. It's not going to help us. So we need a balanced report. A little bit of healthy skepticism I think is in order." 

    In Bangkok, she's been given a hero's welcome by Myanmar migrants -- who call her Mother Suu.  More than two million live in Thailand -- workers, refugees and exiles who've escaped the poverty and repression back home, and for whom she had a message of hope -- that conditions would soon be right for them to return.

    For the first time in nearly a quarter century, Myanmar's opposition leader, Aung San Suu Kyi, has left her country for a journey overseas, first to Bangkok and later to Europe. NBC's Ian Williams reports.

    Even when she wasn't in detention, Suu Kyi, 66, had not left Myanmar since 1988, fearing the ruling generals wouldn't let her back in -- even when her husband was dying in the U.K.

    Myanmar's president, who kicked off the reforms by releasing Suu Kyi from house arrest and allowing her to run for parliament, was also invited to this forum, but decided to stay at home --- fearing he's be upstaged.


    Follow @msnbc_world

    Suu Kyi receives ecstatic Thailand welcome

    Still, the fact Suu Kyi has decided to leave for this visit -- with more planned to Europe -- is in itself a vote of confidence in the reforms.

    In Dublin, she'll share a stage with U2 frontman Bono, a staunch Suu Kyi supporter, at a concert in her honor, according to Irish media. In England, she has been given the rare honor of addressing both houses of Parliament. France's Foreign Ministry says she also plans to stop in Paris.

    And in Norway she'll deal with some unfinished business -- picking up her 1991 Nobel Peace Prize.

    Reuters and The Associated Press contributed to this report. 

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    6 comments

    Her 15 minute address to the World Economic Forum on East Asia, Suu Kyi seized the chance to call for an ethical approach from the assembled foreign business chiefs and Asian political leaders. Calling for a "healthy scepticism" towards Myanmar's creeping reform under the quasi-civilian government,  …

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    Explore related topics: nobel, thailand, myanmar, suu-kyi, world-economic-forum, featured, burma, ian-williams
  • 3
    Apr
    2012
    1:19pm, EDT

    Myanmar house of fear becomes house of hope

    Ian Williams / NBC News

    The headquarters of Aung San Suu Kyi's pro-democracy political party, the National League for Democracy (NLD) in Yangoon, Myanmar was teeming with people coming and going on Tuesday.

    By Ian Williams, NBC News

    YANGON, Myanmar –  A dilapidated  three-story house on Yangon's busy Shwe Gone Dine Road has become the unlikely focus of celebration and hope over the last few days.

    It used to be a place of fear.

    The house is the headquarters of Aung San Suu Kyi's pro-democracy political party, the National League for Democracy (NLD), which swept most of the votes in Sunday's by-election.

    There were wild scenes here as thousands gathered after the polls closed Sunday and reports began to emerge about the scale of the victory – the NLD won 43 out of the 44 seats in parliament they contested. Suu Kyi, the country’s longtime democracy icon who won one of the parliamentary seats, gave a speech from the gate of the NLD’s headquarters Monday. She proclaimed the election a triumph for the people and the start of “a new era” for the long-repressed country.

    Suu Kyi hails 'triumph of the people' after Myanmar election win

    When I visited the house on Tuesday, the cramped and usually gloomy reception area was packed with well-wishers. On the sidewalk outside, stalls selling t-shirts, caps and bandannas were doing a brisk trade.


    Yet there was a time not so long ago when visiting here could be a nerve-racking experience.

    Ian Williams / NBC News

    The tea house opposite the National League for Democracy (NLD) headquarters in Yangon, Myanmar where military intelligence used to monitor the comings and goings at pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi's party.

    Close call
    Across the road sits a small tea shop that was always packed with military intelligence officers who would photograph people coming and going from the house. They would note car registrations and follow visitors in their beat-up white Toyotas when they left.

    A few years ago, during a time when Suu Kyi was briefly at liberty (she was under house arrest for about 15 years) I did a TV interview with her at the party headquarters, only to be followed to the airport by one of those beat-up Toyotas. I was detained with my cameraman and taken to a small room where military intelligence officers methodically went through our luggage, confiscating several video tapes.

    Eventually, minutes before our flight, they told us to go. We slipped on our shoes, which in accordance with Buddhist tradition, had been left outside the room.

    My cameraman appeared to be walking awkwardly toward the plane. It was only after we had boarded the plane and were well on our way to Thailand that he produced from his left sneaker the key tape from the interview.

    It had sat there tucked in his shoe outside the room throughout our brief detention.

    Of course, after we broadcast the interview, I was black-listed from entering Myanmar for about a decade.

    Aung San Suu Kyi spoke to crowds of cheering supporters saying she hoped it would be a new beginning for the country. NBC's Ian Williams reports.

    A new era
    Among journalists there are many similar stories about the NLD headquarters. Some of the funnier ones focus on the sometimes extreme lengths reporters would go to disguise themselves from the prying cameras of the spooks, who in turn would go to absurd lengths to creep up on the reporters with their large and unwieldy cameras. They sometimes resembled a grotesque cross between George Orwell and the Keystone Cops.

    There was, however, nothing funny about them to those who risked their lives working for the NLD and whose latest and usually disheartening briefings we went to hear.

    How things have changed.

    On Monday, television crews were traipsing through the military intelligence’s tea shop to climb a hill behind it in order to get a better shot of the NLD house. It seemed like the ultimate indignity for the men whose word has been law here for decades.

    But they haven't completely abandoned their old haunt. As we came back down the hill and around the back of the tea shop we were confronted by an officious-looking man with a dog-eared notebook demanding to know our names.

    We ignored him and left.

    As our van pulled away I couldn't help but look behind, searching for the beat-up Toyota on our tail.

    It was nowhere to be seen, which might sound trivial against the background of the weekend's historic elections, but in its own way it's an enormous sign of change.

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    8 comments

    I was in Burma about 10 years ago. We were also followed by the ubiquitous undercover goons. The way they followed us was reminiscent of the key stone cops. I would have laughed at this type of surveillance except I was aware of the plight of the ordinary Burmese under such surveillance.

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    Explore related topics: myanmar, suu-kyi, featured, burma, nld, ian-williams
  • 2
    Apr
    2012
    6:11am, EDT

    Suu Kyi hails 'triumph of the people' after Myanmar election win

    Aung San Suu Kyi spoke to crowds of cheering supporters saying she hoped it would be a new beginning for the country. NBC's Ian Williams reports.

    By msnbc.com news services

    Updated 11:21 a.m. ET: Aung San Suu Kyi claimed victory Monday in Myanmar's historic by-election, saying she hoped it would mark the beginning of "a new era" for the long-repressed country.

    Suu Kyi spoke to thousands of cheering supporters who gathered outside her opposition party headquarters a day after her party declared she had won a parliamentary seat in the closely watched vote.


    The Election Commission has not yet confirmed the results, but government officials have commented on Suu Kyi's victory and the people of Myanmar, also known as Burma, have reacted with jubilation.

    "The success we are having is the success of the people," Suu Kyi said, as a sea of supporters chanted her name and thrust their hands into the air to flash "V" for victory signs.

    In Myanmar, Suu Kyi wins parliament seat, raises hopes for democracy

    "It is not so much our triumph as a triumph of the people who have decided that they have to be involved in the political process in this country," she said. "We hope this will be the beginning of a new era."

    If confirmed, Suu Kyi will take public office for the first time and lead a small bloc of lawmakers from her opposition National League for Democracy in Myanmar's military-dominated Parliament.

    The victory would mark a major milestone in the Southeast Asian nation, which is emerging from a ruthless era of military rule, and also an astonishing reversal of fortune for a woman who became one of the world's most prominent prisoners of conscience.

    Suu Kyi wins seat in historic Myanmar election

    The U.S. on Monday hailed the result as an important step in the country's "democratic transformation".

    "We hope it is an indication that the government of Burma intends to continue along the path of greater openness, transparency, and reform,'' Jay Carney, press secretary for U.S. President Barack Obama, said in a statement.

    The United States and European Union had hinted they could lift some sanctions - imposed over the past two decades in response to human rights abuses - if the election were free and fair.

    Nay Zin Latt, an adviser to President Thein Sein, told The Associated Press he was "not really surprised that the NLD had won a majority of seats" in the by-election.

    Party wins 43 out of 45 seats
    Asked if Suu might be given a Cabinet post, he said: "Everything is possible. She could be given any position of responsibility because of her capacity."

    Unofficial counts continued to trickle in Monday from poll watchers within Suu Kyi's party, and spokesman Han Than said the opposition had won at least 43 of the 44 parliament seats it had contested. Those included all four seats up for grabs in the capital, Naypyitaw, which is populated by civil servants and would be an embarrassing sign of defeat for the government.

    The NLD did not contest one of the 45 by-elections.

    Khin Maung Win / AP

    Myanmar pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi talks to supporters at the headquarters of her National League for Democracy party in Yangon, Myanmar Monday.

    Suu Kyi had complained last week of "irregularities", though none seemed significant enough to question the vote.

    Voters had filed into makeshift polling stations from dawn on Sunday, some gushing with excitement after casting ballots for the frail-looking Suu Kyi, or "Aunty Suu" as she is affectionately known.

    Among supporters who voted in her rustic constituency of bamboo-thatched homes in Kawhmu, there was little doubt she would win.

    "Almost everyone we asked voted for Aunty Suu," Ko Myint Aung, a 27-year-old shop owner told Reuters.

    The Associated Press and Reuters contributed to this report.

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    10 comments

    I hope this is the first step toward a democratic Burma. Hopefully Myanmar will fade into the history books.....

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    Explore related topics: election, myanmar, asia-pacific, suu-kyi, featured, burma
  • 30
    Mar
    2012
    12:51pm, EDT

    Carnival-like atmosphere in Myanmar ahead of election

    Opposition leader Aung San Suu Kyi is poised to win a seat in parliament and join a government that's embracing reform, but still dominated by the military. NBC's Ian Williams reports.

    By Ian Williams, NBC News correspondent

    YANGON, Myanmar – It was like carnival time in Mingalar Taung Nyung Township on Friday. A cavalcade of packed cars, mini-buses and trucks cruised the streets of this rundown Yangon suburb, music blaring, while the euphoric passengers sang, waved and danced.

    "Aung San Suu Kyi!" they shouted, while bystanders cheered them on.

    A group of monks raised their fists and shouted back: "Aung San Suu Kyi!"

    Myanmar is preparing to go to the polls Sunday in only its third election in 50 years. Suu Kyi, the country’s pro-democracy leader, is running for one of 45 parliamentary seats.  

    Images of Suu Kyi were everywhere – on t-shirts, posters, flags and red bandanas, together with a fighting peacock, the symbol of her party, the National League for Democracy.
      
    Just one year ago, openly displaying these images could have quickly landed you in jail.

    ‘Will she win?’ I asked one man, who clearly thought it was one of the silliest questions he’d heard in some time. "100 percent certain," he said, his voice hoarse from all the shouting. "100 percent certain."

    High stakes
    Suu Kyi herself is being far more cautious about Sunday's vote, accusing her opponents of widespread intimidation.

    Ian Williams / NBC News

    A jeep decked out with special speakers to blare music helped whip up pre-election excitement in a suburb of Yangon, Myanmar on Friday.

    "We hope the courage and resolution of the people will overcome the intimidation and irregularities that have been taking place," she said at a press conference early Friday.

    She's not been out campaigning since she took ill earlier this week from fatigue and exhaustion. The 66-year-old looked stronger Friday and joked about her health: "I'm feeling a little delicate, so any tough questions and I'll faint straight away," she joked.

    By most accounts the enthusiasm on the streets of Mingalar Taung Nyung has been repeated across the country, even though only 45 seats are being contested. That's only a fraction of the 659 seats in what will still be a military-dominated parliament, even if Suu Kyi’s party grabs all the seats it's contesting Sunday.

    All the same, the stakes have never been higher. A clean election will mark another step towards the lifting of sanctions against Myanmar. And the mere fact Suu Kyi and her party, the National League for Democracy, have returned to politics is seen in itself as a huge step forward - though only a first step.

    Tough job for election observers
    Myanmar has invited more than 150 international election observers to monitor the election, although one observer I met Friday said it was like nothing he'd ever seen before.

    Ian Williams / NBC News

    Young people participate in pre-eletion rallies in Mingalar Taung Nyung Township, a suburb of Yangon, Myanmar on Friday. They are wearing the colors of pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi's National League for Democracy party.

    There has been no access to Myanmar's election commission or to electoral lists, and it’s not clear whether access will be grated to polling stations or vote counting. That makes their job very difficult.

    "There could be massive fraud or no fraud – I’m not sure we'll be able to judge the difference," one observer said to me.
    Devoid of their usual tools, their judgments will be impressionistic at best, though as one said to me: "The mere fact this is happening at all in Myanmar is a huge step."

    Suu Kyi seems to share that view. Her accusations of irregularities are aimed primarily at local opponents, for whom old habits die hard. She's said many times that she does not doubt the sincerity of Myanmar's President Thein Sein, the former general who started the reform process last year with an easing of censorship and the release of political prisoners.

    Many analysts believe it would rather suit hem to have Suu Kyi in parliament.

    Ian Williams / NBC News

    A bus decorated in the color's of pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi's National League for Democracy party rides through the streets of Mingalar Taung Nyung Township, a suburb of Yangon, Myanmar on Friday.

    For her, there is a much bigger dynamic at work than the raw election numbers.

    Genie out of the bottle
    "It's the rising political awareness of our people that we regard as our greatest triumph," Suu Kyi said Friday.

    Hardliners are certainly capable of pushing back such as in 1990 when the election victory by the National League for Democracy was simply overturned by the military.

    However, this feels different. It was hard not to get caught up in all the emotion on the street today.
    It seems like the start of something more enduring, a process that the military will likely find hard to turn off or turn around, even if they wanted to.

    32 comments

    B U R M A

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  • 20
    Feb
    2012
    8:26am, EST

    Rocking out to hip-hop in the new Myanmar

    By Ploy Bunluesilp , NBC News

    Ploy Bunluesilp is the NBC News Bureau Producer in Bangkok. She has reported from Myanmar five times since 2006. She was most recently on assignment in Yangon, Myanmar’s commercial capital, in early December for U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton’s meeting with pro-democracy icon Aung San Suu Kyi.

    YANGON, Myanmar – A thumping rock and hip hop beat, entranced teenagers clutching beer cans, hundreds of people smiling happily – it sure wasn't the Myanmar I am used to.

    I've had plenty of memorable experiences in Myanmar, most of them unpleasant. I've been kicked out of the country by officials not once, but twice.



    In 2007, when journalists were forbidden from covering the so-called "Saffron Uprising," I posed as a tourist to get into the country and played cat-and-mouse with the security forces to grab some footage when escalating political protests, initially led by monks, were crushed by the military. I watched soldiers beat cowering Burmese men and women with batons on the streets of the capital. It was an exceptionally dangerous time: a Japanese journalist was among those killed. 
     
    The following year I was back again to cover the devastation caused by Cyclone Nargis.  I saw people who literally lost everything – I remember one man who was clutching photographs of his wife and children to help officials find their corpses. Reporters were banned from the whole cyclone-hit area, so again we had to film in secret. Eventually our team was spotted, and police later tracked me down to a hotel in the capital and threw me out of the country.

     

    During all of my previous trips, most people I met were terrified to talk, fearing they could be jailed just for speaking to a journalist. Even the guide who took me to the barricaded house where pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi was imprisoned begged me not to take photographs, saying it could put him in danger.

    So it was wonderful to be able to move freely around Yangon during my last visit, and to find optimistic people unafraid to talk. That alone showed me how profoundly things have changed already.
     
    This time I was there on Dec. 2, 2011,  the same day U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton met with Suu Kyi. I went to a huge rock concert, and I had a lot of fun.

    Rocking out of a rut
    Myanmar has stagnated for decades under the oppressive rule of a paranoid military dictatorship, but over the past year the country has suddenly started to make progress toward greater democracy and freedom of expression – and more tolerance of rock and hip hop.

    So I found myself at a nearly-sold-out concert at an indoor stadium in Yangon. Burmese stars belted out rock and hip hop tunes to an audience of girls in tight skirts and young men in skinny jeans, instead of the traditional sarongs usually worn in the country.

    The music was full of energy, and got me moving, but there was little boisterous enthusiasm and dancing among the audience – most stayed seated, tapping their feet and nodding their heads to the music.

    They were mostly rich kids, teenagers who arrived at the stadium in expensive cars while poor children in tattered clothes collected garbage around the stadium.

    “Only rich or middle class people can afford to buy a ticket as you have to spend at least 50 kyats ($7),” a Burmese friend told me. That would be cheap for a concert in most countries, but Myanmar remains mired in poverty and most people earn just a few dollars a day.

    There were still plenty of reminders of the old repressive Myanmar: the atmosphere at the concert was not helped by the presence of several stern-looking armed guards.

    Singing for change
    Backstage the celebrity musicians were hanging out before the concert started, and I met the hip hop group ACID in their room. Their first album, also Myanmar’s first hip hop album, was the country’s best seller in 2000.  But their non-traditional style, lack of deference for authority and controversial lyrics about the hardships of life in Myanmar eventually got them in trouble.

     “Our music was new to people. The government doesn’t like us because we did not follow the traditional style,” said Anegga, a 32-year-old ACID band member who goes by one name.

    Two of the band's members were arrested in 2008 for allegedly illegal political activities. One of them, Zayar Thaw, 32, was dressed in shorts, a tee-shirt, a baseball cap and his arms were covered with tattoos – not exactly the traditional Myanmar ideal of a quiet, well-behaved young man.  
     
    He was released from prison in May, and told me he still has to watch his words. “I have to be careful about saying things now, Big Brother is watching.” 

    But now, the band is back together and ACID is performing again. They are among more than 50 musicians and singers who have pledged their support for the election campaign of Suu Kyi, who has been released after years of house arrest and is now running for a seat in parliament. 

    Suu Kyi's musical supporters are producing a special album, with songs designed to raise awareness about politics and encourage people to stand up for their rights. One of the songs contributed by ACID asks: “How can I talk, How can I see, If you close my eyes and ears?”

    The musicians hope their songs can help push the boundaries and educate people in their country after 49 years of censorship and military rule.

    “Everything for Aung San Suu Kyi, we love to do it for her. We love her,” said female pop singer Than That Win.

    After elections in November 2010, which were widely condemned as rigged, Myanmar's ruling generals exchanged their uniforms for civilian suits – but few expected much to change.

    Then beginning in October of this year, the government introduced a series of dizzying changes: The new government led by a former general, Thein Sein, eased censorship, released political prisoners, introduced a limited right to strike and protest, and started a dialogue with the Suu Kyi.

    The United States has shown its support for the political reforms – Clinton was in town when the concert was held, to see the progress for herself.

    Like many Burmese, the musicians worry that the recent changes could be a false dawn. They are optimistic, but still wary.

     “This is the beginning of change in the country," Anegga told me. "We hope nobody will be arrested this time.”   

    60 comments

    This sort of genie is awfully hard to stuff back into the bottle. There have been so many false and disappointing moments in Burma. Perhaps it really is different this time. Watching with some optimism, but low expectations brought by 50 years of almost-entirely negative experience...

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    Explore related topics: music, myanmar, hip-hop, suu-kyi, featured, burma, ploy-bunluesilp
  • 1
    Dec
    2011
    4:10pm, EST

    Myanmar's new capital: a vast, empty city

    Pool / Reuters

    A policeman drives down Yazahdani Road on the way to the President's Office before a meeting between U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and Myanmar's President Thein Sein in Naypyitaw on Thursday.

    By Ian Williams, NBC News correspondent

    NAYPYITAW, Myanmar – U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton could be forgiven for believing she's visiting two different countries – one called Naypyitaw, the other Myanmar.

    Naypyitaw is the new capital of Myanmar, the country formerly known as Burma. It’s been built from scratch in the middle of nowhere. It's still a work in progress, it was only designated as the administrative capital in 2005, and until recently was largely off-limits to foreigners.

    It’s a sprawling, surreal place with so few people that its eight-lane highways are almost deserted – a somewhat shocking site in this congested part of the world.

    For several miles down one stretch, I saw just three motorcycles and a truck transporting a group of workers who had been tending the landscaped gardens on either side of the road.


    Despite the apparent lack of people, Naypyitaw does have plenty of monstrous government buildings and villas, and several hotels and an international airport are under construction.

    "Where's downtown?" I asked a Myanmar journalist. "I keep asking them that," he replied, “But nobody seems to know."

    For many, Naypyitaw is a symbol of military ego, a metaphor for the former junta's isolation from the world – and its own people.

    Pool / Reuters

    U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton meets with Myanmar's President Thein Sein at the President's Office in Naypyitaw Thursday.

    Myanmar's new president, Thein Sein, a former army officer, is reportedly a modest man. But there's little modesty about his sprawling palace, where he and other officials from the new and nominally civilian government received Clinton in an ornate reception room. It was so new you could almost smell the paint.

    The police made a big show of stopping what little traffic there was to make way for the Clinton cavalcade as it crisscrossed the city.

    There was never any danger of congestion.

    Myanmar has been so secretive that it's not clear precisely when work began on the city, nor how much it cost. It is lavish by any standards, but almost obscenely so against the backdrop of the enormous poverty elsewhere in the country.

    It's hard to say where the money came from – but the military had its finger in many business pies, of various degrees of legitimacy. China has also been a big benefactor.

    The government justified the move by saying Yangon was too crowded, and that Naypyitaw was chosen because it is smack in the middle of the country. Though one bizarre explanation was that former military strongman Than Shwe was shaken by an astrologer's warning that an American attack was imminent and Yangon was too exposed. Cynics suggested he was afraid of his own people as well.

    The real Myanmar
    Clinton flew late in the afternoon Thursday to the country’s old capital, Yangon, the city also known as Rangoon, seemingly a world away. Yangon, 200 miles from Naypyitaw, is a city of stunning pagodas and dilapidated, colonial-era buildings, including the run-down lakeside residence of pro-democracy leader Aung San Suu Kyi.

    Saul Loeb / Pool via AP

    U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Rodham Clinton pours water over a Buddhist statue, as she tours the Shwedegon Pagoda, a Buddhist temple founded between the 6th and 10th centuries AD, in Yangon, Myanmar, Thursday.

    It’s a real city, with real people and a real soul. And for the most part, its residents are giving the benefit of the doubt to the reforms coming from Naypyitaw.

    Clinton met Suu Kyi for a private dinner Thursday evening, the meeting itself a remarkable sign of change.

    Many are still skeptical about the government's intentions – although Suu Kyi isn't among them.

    She was expected to tell Clinton she thinks President Thein Sein is sincere in wanting change, that he truly believes it is the best way forward for the country.

    Suu Kyi will likely test the reforms by standing for a vacant parliamentary seat early next year.

    It is an unusually positive response to the government’s claims of reform – she’s been persecuted for years by the regime for her pursuit of democracy, spending 15 of the last 21 years under house arrest.

    Thursday evening was the first time the two have met, and Clinton, while welcoming the reforms, is taking a more cautious public line.

    Pool / Pool via Reuters

    U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton tours the Shwedegon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar Thursday.

    That, after all, is her job.

    Though it’s my guess that she'll be enchanted both by Suu Kyi and Yangon – a good deal more so than the sterile meeting rooms of Naypyitaw.

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